Intro
Stitch types are a fundamental processing element in the clothing industry. They define sewing processes and are used as a standardized terminology for all processing descriptions. However, not everyone is familiar with the terms and numerations according to ISO 4915 and DIN 61400, the corresponding seam appearance, and correct stitch formation. The following section presents the most important stitch types, including graphics and pictures of the corresponding seam appearance. The overview also contains industry-standard data concerning seam width and stitch density per stitch type, as well as the respective thread requirement.
Determination of the sewing thread requirement
Knowing the thread requirement is essential for work preparation, calculation, and disposition. The basis for determining the sewing thread requirement is the stitch type. Therefore, the following overview lists the thread requirement values based on the industrial standard parameters: stitch density, sewing material thickness, seam width, and seam length per stitch type.
The indicated thread requirement refers to the respective thread system (needle thread + bobbin or looper thread + cover thread) and is also listed in the overview as a total value. Thus, it is possible to determine the consumption for single seam positions of a garment by multiplying seam length and thread requirement. Furthermore, the table shows the percentage distribution of the sewing thread requirement per thread system (needle thread, bobbin or looper thread, and cover thread). It is important to consider that the sewing material thickness may influence the percentage distribution (see section “Sewing material thickness”).
Factors that mainly influence the sewing thread requirement
Stitch density
The stitch density has a significant influence on the sewing thread requirement, in particular for stitch types with cross-directional threads (overlock, cover chain, or zig-zag stitches). An increase in stitch density from 4 to 6 stitches/cm in the lockstitch (stitch type 301), for example, leads to an increase in sewing thread requirement of approx. 15%. With the 2-needle cover chainstitch (stitch type 602), the sewing thread requirement even increases by approx. 30% with the same increase in stitch density. This must be considered during calculation to avoid shortages in quantities and therefore costly subsequent deliveries.
Sewing material thickness
A change in the sewing material thickness also has a significant impact on the sewing thread requirement. Besides a change in the overall thread requirement, it is possible that the ratio between the thread systems may shift. An increase in sewing material thickness leads to a change in the relation between needle and looper thread for all stitch types whose interlooping does not take place within, but outside, the fabric. The double chainstitch is an example of this. In this case, an increase in sewing material thickness leads to an increase in the needle thread requirement, whereas the looper thread requirement remains constant.
Thread tension and thread balance
The following overview shows stitch appearances with an optimal thread balance. If the interlooping or interlacing does not take place in the ideal position, there is an incorrect thread balance. This not only affects the thread requirement, but also the seam strength and seam elasticity. Therefore, it is crucial to always aim for an optimal thread balance. Improper thread tension settings of the sewing machine can tremendously influence the thread balance. This changes the ratio between the needle thread, bobbin or looper thread, and, if applicable, the cover thread, and can influence the overall thread requirement, especially for stitch types of categories 500 and 600.
The recommended thread balance in the seam
NT = needle thread | BT = bobbin thread | LT = looper thread
Additional thread requirement
The thread requirement values listed in the overview are so-called “net values”. This means that they refer to a seam length of one meter. In practice, an additional 10–15% is typically added on top of the net amount to ensure a sufficient thread supply during model calculation.
This supplement considers the following procedures:
- Securing of seam beginning and seam end with lockstitch seams, e.g. by bar tacking
- Securing seam ends of chain stitches
- Change of colour
- Remaining thread in case of spool or cone change
- Variability in sizes
- Model- or production-related changes
The mentioned relations should be considered during model calculation. If the parameters, such as stitch density, sewing material thickness, thread tension, seam width, etc. of the calculated piece do not match the information in this chapter, it is possible to easily identify the missing sewing thread requirement figures by unpicking and measuring a seam.
The following pages contain the most important stitch types according to ISO 4915, including stitch formation, seam appearance, thread systems, and technical characteristics. The illustrations provide a visual overview of the different stitch classes and their construction.
Empirical data for thread requirement
Ladieswear
| Article | Range of variation (m) | Orientation value * | Closing seam, orientation value in m | Serging seam, orientation value in m | Decorative seam orientation value in m |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Trousers | 180-350 | 265 | 40 | 172 | 53 |
| Skirts | 100-200 | 150 | 20 | 100 | 30 |
| Blouses | 80-200 | 140 | 21 | 91 | 28 |
| Dresses | 200-300 | 250 | 25 | 200 | 25 |
| Dresses (sporting, without lining) | 300-500 | 400 | 60 | 260 | 80 |
| Blazers (classic, with lining) | 100-400 | 250 | 212 | 0 | 38 |
| Blazers (sporty, without lining) | 300-500 | 400 | 140 | 200 | 60 |
| Winter jackets (with lining) | 150-500 | 325 | 225 | 0 | 100 |
| Summer jackets (without lining) | 150-700 | 85 | 85 | 300 | 40 |
| Coats | 200-1000 | 180 | 180 | 210 | 210 |
Menswear
| Article | Range of variation (m) | Orientation value * | Closing seam, orientation value in m | Serging seam, orientation value in m | Decorative seam orientation value in m |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic trousers | 200-300 | 250 | 75 | 163 | 12 |
| 5-pocket trousers | 180-300 | 240 | 72 | 84 | 84 |
| Blazers | 100-260 | 180 | 162 | 0 | 18 |
| Coats / jackets | 250-350 | 300 | 240 | 0 | 60 |
| Shirts (short-sleeves) | 70-100 | 85 | 75 | 0 | 10 |
| Shirts (long-sleeves) | 100-130 | 115 | 104 | 0 | 11 |
Underwear
| Article | Range of variation (m) | Orientation value * | Closing seam, orientation value in m | Serging seam, orientation value in m | Decorative seam orientation value in m |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vests / shirts | 70-150 | 110 | 27 | 77 | 6 |
| Underpants Ladies / Men | 20-100 | 60 | 3 | 9 | 48 |
| Bras | 20-80 | 50 | 10 | 20 | 20 |
| Homewear | 170-250 | 210 | 53 | 105 | 52 |
| Nightgowns | 130-190 | 160 | 40 | 104 | 16 |
Shoes
| Article | Range of variation (m) | Orientation value * | Closing seam, orientation value in m | Serging seam, orientation value in m | Decorative seam orientation value in m |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sports shoes | 20-80 | 50 | 5 | 0 | 45 |
| Men's shoes | 15-30 | 23 | 5 | 0 | 18 |
| Women's shoes | 20-30 | 25 | 5 | 0 | 20 |
| Women's boots | 25-45 | 35 | 7 | 0 | 28 |
*The orientaion value includes the following: Closing seam, serging seam and decorative seam
FAQ
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Stitch types define how threads are interlaced or interlooped during sewing. They are standardized according to ISO 4915 and used worldwide in garment production.
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Different stitch types influence seam appearance, elasticity, durability, and thread consumption. Choosing the correct stitch type is essential for seam performance and production efficiency.
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Higher stitch density increases sewing thread consumption significantly, especially for overlock and cover stitches. This must be considered during production planning.
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Thicker materials increase the thread consumption because more thread is needed to form the stitch around the fabric. This also changes the ratio between needle and looper thread.
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Thread balance describes the correct relationship between needle, bobbin, and looper threads within the seam. Incorrect balance can reduce seam quality, elasticity, and strength.
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Accurate calculation helps optimize purchasing, reduce stock, and avoid shortages during production. It also supports cost-efficient manufacturing.
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Net values describe the theoretical thread consumption for one meter of seam under standard conditions. Additional allowances are usually added in practice.
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Additional thread is needed for seam securing, color changes, spool changes, and production variations. Manufacturers typically add around 10–15% to calculated values.