Which factors affect the appearance of a seam?
The appearance of the seam is a special quality criterion, as it can be assessed subjectively. In most cases, a seam only stands out when it is not well done. There are many possible reasons for this. In addition to the correct choice of sewing thread, needle and fabric, correct handling and the use of suitable machines are also decisive for the final seam quality.
Seam puckering
A visible, wavy appearance on one or both sides of the seam is rarely desirable. Seam puckering is one of the most common processing problems in garment manufacturing. It can occur immediately after sewing, during ironing or pressing, or only after a short rest period along the seam or in certain areas of the seam. In practice, puckering is assessed visually and evaluated using a photo scale.
Seam marks
Seam marks visible on the outside are a well-known processing problem with fine fabrics. They occur when the seam allowances and/or sewing threads leave marks when the closing and serging seams are ironed.
Poor coordination of sewing thread and fabric
Sewing thread construction and ticket number often do not ideally emphasise the character of the fabrics and designs. If the sewing thread, needle size and fabric are not optimally matched, material damage can occur, for example, due to the use of needles that are too coarse. This damage usually only becomes visible after the first wash, when the fabric threads along the seam are brushed up.
Incorrect thread balance
As soon as the thread balance deviates from the ideal, an uneven seam pattern results, which is generally unacceptable for visible seams. The following illustration shows the appearance of a poor thread balance in a double lockstitch seam.
Poor colour matching
Unwanted colour differences in tone-on-tone stitching are easy to spot. This problem is less noticeable with contrasting coloured seams.
The following is important for achieving the optimum colour match between sewing thread and fabric:
- Colour matching, taking into account the metamerism effect
- Comparison of colour fastness between fabric, sewing thread and other materials
- Use of trained personnel with a keen sense of colour
Seam grinning
Even to the untrained eye, so-called grinning or protruding seams indicate that something is wrong with the processing. This mainly affects joining seams that are subject to heavy wear, such as seat seams. When a seam grins, the stitching between the two seam edges becomes visible.
When tension is applied across the direction of the seam, the sewing threads appear in the form of a ladder. Possible causes include poor thread balance, thread tension that is too loose or insufficient stitch density.
Conclusion
Seam appearance has a major impact on the perceived quality of a sewn product. A well-balanced combination of sewing thread, fabric, needle and sewing parameters helps prevent visible defects and ensures a clean, high-quality seam.
FAQ
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Seam appearance refers to the visual quality of a seam and is assessed subjectively.
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Visible seams influence the perceived product quality. Irregularities are immediately noticeable.
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Seam puckering is a wavy or wrinkled appearance along the seam line.
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It may appear directly after sewing, during pressing or after a resting period.
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It is assessed visually, often using photographic comparison scales.
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Seam marks are visible impressions on fine fabrics caused by seam allowances or sewing threads during pressing.
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Poor coordination between sewing thread, needle size and fabric can damage material, sometimes visible only after washing.
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Incorrect thread balance leads to an uneven seam pattern and visible irregularities.
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It refers to visible colour deviations between sewing thread and fabric, especially in tone-on-tone applications.
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Seam grinning occurs when stitches become visible between seam edges under transverse tension.
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Common causes are poor thread balance, low thread tension or insufficient stitch density.