Choosing the right thread size

Besides the raw material and the construction of a sewing thread, its linear density or size also determines its field of application. The size of a sewing thread therefore has a significant influence on both the sewing process and the quality of the seam.

In order to ensure perfect sewability and a trouble-free sewing operation, the sewing thread must be matched to the following factors:

• Sewing material or fabric
• Needle
• Sewing machine
• Seam type
• Stitch type

Sewing tests remain the best method for selecting the appropriate thread size. The sewing material or fabric, as well as the sewing machine, determine the type of needle and the seam and stitch construction, and therefore the suitable sewing thread. Very fine fabrics, for example, require the use of the thinnest needles and sewing threads.

The recommended needle sizes for AMANN sewing and embroidery threads are available on the product pages, as well as in our brochures and colour cards. Depending on the sewing material or fabric and machine type, larger needles may also be required. These should be tested under production-like conditions in advance to avoid any subsequent deterioration in seam quality.

The size of the sewing thread influences seam properties such as cross-breaking strength, elasticity, abrasion resistance, appearance, and handle. Switching to a finer sewing thread to achieve finer seams has noticeable effects on seam strength due to the lower breaking strength of finer threads.

The appearance of prominent decorative seams can only be achieved by selecting a coarser sewing thread. The correct needle size for the respective fabric should always be determined in advance through testing. Depending on the structure of the outer fabric, damage may occur if a needle that is too large is used (fabric or mesh damage).